Dimensions2' x 2'
Projection0" from tile face
Recession1/2" from tile face
Special InstructionsNot recommended for installations
where ceiling temperatures exceed 120°F
Print/DownloadProduct Spec Sheet
These thermoform tiles are made from UV Stabilized .030" thick vinyl plastic. They are designed to provide all the functionality of conventional drop ceiling tiles at a fraction of the weight. The sturdy construction makes them a breeze to install, easy to clean, stain resistant, water resistant, dust free, and eco friendly! Installation is fast and couldn't be any easier.
Designed to fit all standard 15/16" - 1" T-Bar and 9/16" T-Bar Ceiling Systems. Most of the thermoform ceiling tiles come in two sizes, 2'x2' and 2'x4'.
FYI - If you have a 2x4 grid ceiling, but would prefer the look of the 2x2 ceiling tiles, simply insert a 2' center T bar available online or at most local hardware stores...it's easy!
The Oxford Grid tile is an exciting new option for our customers who prefer the simple elegance of the Stratford, but demand a thicker tile. At .03" thick, it is twice as thick as the Stratford. Being that it is Class A Fire rated, it is an excellent choice for most businesses and homes. We are also proud to say that it is made in the USA.
Things to Consider:
The Oxford tile is not suitable for use as a direct mount tile, since it is not flat on the back.
Since the Oxford tile is twice as thick as the Stratford tile, it is able to handle a bit of weight. If you'd like to keep your existing tile in the grid for acoustical/sound barrier purposes, you are able to do so without the risk of sagging.
It is more than likely that your room has partial tiles on the perimeter. Not to worry- The Oxford tile lays nice and flat in the grid when cut to any size. Since the recession of the design is only 1/2", there is no unsightly gap that will show.
If your grid is already white and in good condition, it should match the white Oxford tile very well. If you are going with a colored option, we highly recommend that you consider the Grid Tape or Grid Strips since they are color coordinated with the ProLite collection. If you would prefer to avoid the extra expense, you can of course paint your grid as well.
Greenguard Gold Certification offers strict certification criteria that considers safety factors to account for sensitive individuals (such as children and the elderly), and ensures that a product is acceptable for use in environments such as schools and healthcare facilities. It is referenced by both The Collaborative for High Performance Schools (CHPS) and the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Building Rating System. Click here for more information.
Certain ProLite ceiling tiles are approved drop-out ceiling panels that can be installed beneath fire sprinklers. When exposed to heat from a developing fire, drop-out ceiling panels soften, distort, and fall from the ceiling grid. Heat from the growing fire activates the sprinkler which, unimpeded by the panels, controls or extinguishes the fire. Click here for more information.
Materials used in the construction of the tile(s) are 100% waterproof.
Class A Fire Rated
Tiles have been tested in accordance with ASTM 84e and scored a Class A rating for flame spread and smoke generation.
5 Year Limited Warranty
You're making a beautiful upgrade to your ceiling and we're here to help protect that investment. We guarantee that your ceiling tiles will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of five years from the original date of purchase.
This warranty covers material defects in the ceiling tile when used in a standard ceiling application where temperatures do not exceed 120F. It does not cover labor, consequential or incidental damages. This warranty is not transferable and applies to the original purchaser only. Please note that painting the ceiling tile will void the warranty and may change some of its properties like its fire rating.
We're Ready to Help
Unlike a car, there is very little that can go wrong with these ceiling tiles. However, in the rare event that you do encounter a defect with your tiles, we're here and ready to help. Just give us a call and we'll work with you to identify the problem and, in case of defect, supply you with replacement tiles.
We know that projects take a while, and sometimes plans change. That's why, we offer a great return policy on all non-custom products:
Tools Needed for Installation
Your Old Tiles
Have old tiles still in good condition? Reuse them to add heat and sound insulation as well as support regular insulation above your tiles by pushing your existing tiles up out of place and turning them slightly to rest on top of the grid system. NOTE: this is likely not compliant with commercial building codes, so verify if this is an option.
Insulation Above ProLite Series Tiles
Due to the recessed design elements of the Oxford, regular fiberglass insulation will deform the tile if laid on top. If your space requires insulation above the tiles you have a few options:
Clean Grid (If Using Grid Strips/Tape)
Use rubbing alcohol or 409 to remove dirt and oils from your grid. This is easier to do before putting up your new tiles.
Installing - Start with Full Tiles
Place all of the full sized tiles first so you can:
Cutting Border / Partial Tiles
The Oxford ceiling tile is very easy to cut with regular household scissors. Use a tape measure or straightedge to measure the size your tiles need to be. Transfer those measurements to the back side of the tile with a pencil or grease pencil, mark a straight line, and cut!
Recessed / Can Lights (optional)
Choose a tile design that has a large enough flat area for the light bezel to lay flush once installed. As with standard mineral fiber tiles, regular can lights must have grid mounting brackets so that the weight of the light is supported by the grid system and not the tile.
Clip-In "Puck" LED Lights (optional)
In testing of the Oxford with a few of the newer, clip-in "puck" style of LED light, they were able to bear the weight without deflecting or deforming. Each type of light, its driver, and installation project is different, so we cannot guarantee results and this does void the Oxford Ceiling Tile warranty. Be sure to test a few tiles first before proceeding with installation like this.
We strongly advise you to review your local building codes and light installation instructions before installing the lights. You may be required to attach the light and/or driver to the structure of the building. We are not responsible for any issues that may arise when mounting lights or other objects directly to the ceiling tile.
Place your light fixture and tile in the grid system. Adjust the light to its final position and mark this on the backside of your tile. Use the template to mark the hole in the tile (usually the light bezel itself will be close if no template is available). Cut the opening with scissors or a razor blade.
Unshielded fixtures, especially those using halogen lighting, present a risk of fire or melting the tiles.
High Temperature Areas
Our ProLite Series tiles are designed to operate in temperatures up to 120F. Higher temperatures can happen around heat registers, above stoves and ovens, around high temperature lighting, and in environments that intentionally have higher temperatures, like heat spas and Hot Yoga/Bikram studios. Contact us if your space may be subjected to any of these conditions.
Decorative Grid Strips / Grid Tape (optional)
Make sure your grid system is clean, using rubbing alcohol or 409 to remove dirt and oils.
For best results, make sure the temperature in the room is 60-80F and low humidity.
Apply small dabs of direct mount adhesive (a.k.a. glue) along the back of the strips or tape every 6 inches or so. For grid tape, drag the dab along the length to spread it out somewhat. The self-adhesive backing on the strips/tape IS NOT a permanent adhesive, it is meant to hold long enough for the glue to cure. Failure to use glue may result in the failure of the strips or tape to adhere to the ceiling.
Approximately 1 tube of adhesive is needed per 5 packs of strips or 5 rolls of tape. We provide Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive free with purchase or you can use Loctite Power Grab All Purpose Adhesive (available locally in most big box stores).
Should be butted up to one another. Do not overlap! Always start at the same end with each consecutive strip. Always dry-fit first, before peeling off the backing, to see if any trimming is needed.
Take your first strip. The dot at the end should be directly over the intersection of 4 tiles. Once you have the strip lined up, peel the backing from the self adhesive and apply small dabs of adhesive to the back of the strip (see above). Run all the strips one direction first.
Finish by installing the strips that run perpendicular to the tiles. Each strip will need to be trimmed, so keep a pair of scissors or snips in your pocket and cut off the dotted end.
Start in a corner and work one direction. Apply small dabs of adhesive every 6 inches and drag along the length to spread out somewhat. Trim the tape to fit when you reach the end of a run. Finish off by covering the remaining cross T's (shorter grid sections). Trim the tape to fit the space exactly (do not overlap).
Adhesives -vs- Staples
Adhesive is recommended when installing our vinyl tiles, because the tiles can crack when using staples. We recommend Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive.
Surface Types and Methods of Installation
Determine Tile Spacing
Using Grid Strips? (Required for ProLite, optional for Legacy and Designer)
Spacing exactly 24"x24" or 24"x48" is recommended, as it leaves a small gap that the grid strip will cover (test the spacing with two tiles and a grid strip).
Overlapping - No Grid Strips (required for Manchester Ceiling Tile, optional for Legacy and Designer Series)
Place a few tiles on the floor and determine your preferred overlap. Measure the tile spacing in this position. The grid you draw will be smaller than your tile due to the overlap (e.g. if your tile is 23 3/4" and you have a 1/2" overlap, you will draw your grid at 23 1/4").
Note: Everywhere 4 adjacent tiles overlap, the tile thickness compounds. Often, the ceiling height makes this unnoticeable. However, if desired, you can trim 2 or 3 tiles to minimize the thickness.
Planning Your Layout
Use grid paper and map out your ceiling. Indicate the position of lights, vents, and any other fixtures or obstructions to help determine your layout.
Note: If the ceiling tile you have chosen has a large amount of relief, consider using a flatter border tile in the spaces where there are lights, vents or other obstructions.
Consider the main, most visible area of your space as well as the longest runs of tiles. These are usually the lines you want square to your starting wall (used as the base for your lines). Most rooms are not square and many times tile layout is a compromise of room shape and border tile size needs.
Using the tile spacing you determined above, draw the tile grid in your layout. Many people prefer equal width border tiles on opposing walls, and a larger border is often preferred over a small one.
Mark Grid On Ceiling
Use a chalk line (or pencil) to put your layout onto the ceiling to keep everything straight. Be precise; if you are off by only 1/8" on each tile, after 8 tiles you will be off a whole inch! Space your chalk lines according to your determined spacing.
Before You Begin
Your surface needs to be smooth, clean, and dry. Test your adhesive and tile combination in a small area before committing to doing the whole ceiling.
Installing the First Tile
Make sure all surfaces are clean, as well as your hands. Any oils on the ceiling, tiles, or your hands can affect the adhesive performance. Latex gloves are a great option, keeping oils off the tiles and keeping your hands clean of adhesive.
If using grid strips, each tile will be installed at the center of its "grid" box, not touching any of the lines. For overlapping installations without grid strips, it is easiest to align two edges of the tile to the drawn grid lines (e.g. the bottom and right edges if you are working from top to bottom and left to right) so that you don't cover any lines you'll need for a subsequent tile.
Apply a bead of adhesive all the way around the perimeter of the backside of the tile. Make the bead 1/8" to 3/16" in size. If the tile center lays flat on the ceiling, add a 4" "X" to the center section with adhesive. If the tile has a design where only a few areas touch the ceiling, place dabs of adhesive on those sections. Keep a damp towel handy to clean up any adhesive that may seep out.
Gently place the tile close to its final location next to your chalk lines. Lightly press the tile to the ceiling as you slide it into position. This lets the adhesive spread out and smear a bit. Once you are satisfied that the tile is in place, firmly press it to the ceiling, rubbing out any bumps in the adhesive.
Second Tile - With Overlap
Use the same gluing technique as the first tile. Place the second tile next to your first one, aligning to the same edges of the grid lines (e.g. bottom and right) as your first tile. It will overlap by your predetermined amount. Continue to place full sized tiles, remaining lined up on your grid lines.
Second Tile - Without Overlap
Use the same gluing technique as the first tile. Center the second tile in its respective "grid" space next to the first. The edges of each tile should NOT be touching. Dry fit the Grid Strip to confirm you are placing the tiles with the correct spacing.
Measure the open space from the installed tile to the wall, adding overlap if not using grid strips. Make sure to take measurements at each end of the space, as the measurements are often different due to inconsistencies in construction. Make sure the tile is facing the correct direction. Transfer your measurements to your border tile and cut it.
For best results, make sure the temperature in the room is 60-80F and low humidity.
Apply small dabs of direct mount adhesive (a.k.a. glue) every 8 inches (one at each end and two spaced in the middle). The self-adhesive backing on the strip IS NOT a permanent adhesive, it is meant to hold long enough for the glue to cure. Failure to use glue may result in the failure of the strips to adhere to the ceiling.
Approximately 1 tube of adhesive is needed per 5 packs of strips. We provide Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive free with purchase or you can use Loctite Power Grab All Purpose Adhesive (available locally in most big box stores).
Strips should be butted up to one another. Do not overlap! Always start at the same end with each consecutive strip. Always dry-fit first, before peeling off the backing, to see if any trimming is needed.
Take your first strip. The dot at the end should be directly over the intersection of 4 tiles. Once you have the strip lined up, peel the backing from the self adhesive and apply adhesive to the back of the strip (see above). Run all the strips one direction first.