Dimensions2' x 2'
Thickness.013" - Cuts easily with scissors
Projection.58" from tile face
Special InstructionsNot recommended for installations
where ceiling temperatures exceed 120°F
Print/DownloadProduct Spec Sheet
We recommend using Stratford Vinyl Ceiling Tile - Black as a border tile for Victorian Ceiling Tile - Black.
For tiles that either project down into the room or are coffered (recess up into the ceiling), the finished look is often better when using a border tile for partial tiles on the room's perimeter.Watch our video on Border Tiles
These thermoform tiles are made from UV Stabilized .013" thick vinyl plastic. They are designed to provide all the functionality of conventional drop ceiling tiles at a fraction of the weight. The feather-light construction makes them a breeze to install, easy to clean, stain resistant, water resistant, dust free, and eco friendly! Installation is fast and couldn't be any easier.
Designed to fit all standard 15/16" - 1" T-Bar Ceiling Systems. Most of the thermoform ceiling tiles come in two sizes, 2'x2' and 2'x4'.
Not recommended for direct mount installation
FYI - If you have a 2x4 grid ceiling, but would prefer the look of the 2x2 ceiling tiles, simply insert a 2' center T bar available online or at most local hardware stores...it's easy!
5 Year ProShield Warranty
The ceiling tile manufacturer guarantees that your ceiling tiles will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of five years from the date of purchase. Limitations apply. See full warranty information below.
ProLite ceiling tiles bearing this mark are UL tested and approved drop-out ceiling panels that can be installed beneath fire sprinklers. When exposed to heat from a developing fire, drop-out ceiling panels soften, distort, and fall from the ceiling grid. Heat from the growing fire activates the sprinkler which, unimpeded by the panels, controls or extinguishes the fire.
The Victorian Grid Tile is modern elegance at its finest. It is the perfect choice for any room that you want to give a dash of debonair. Being that it is Class A Fire rated, it is an excellent choice for most businesses and homes. We are also proud to say that it is made in the USA.
Things to Consider:
The Victorian tile is not suitable for use as a direct mount tile, since it is not flat on the back.
While only .013" thick, the embossed design gives it the rigidity and structure needed to support itself in the grid without sagging. To avoid the risk of sagging, we discourage placing any weight directly on the tile, with the exception of our Soniguard insulation; it has been tested and approved for this purpose as an alternative to traditional insulation. If you would like to keep your existing acoustical tile in the grid for insulation or sound barrier purposes, we recommend that you place it above the framework so that it is not putting any weight on the Victorian.
Since your ceiling will more than likely have partial tiles at the perimeter, you will have to cut the tiles to size for those areas. Since the Victorian tile projects .58" below the grid, it isn't suitable to be used as a partial tile. Not to worry, since we have many great border tile options. You will notice that we have them conveniently linked for your selection on the product details page. If your grid is already white and in good condition, it should match the white Victorian tile very well. If you are going with a colored option, we highly recommend that you consider the Grid Tape or Grid Strips since they are color coordinated with the ProLite collection. If you would prefer to avoid the extra expense, you can of course paint your grid as well.
Greenguard Gold Certification offers strict certification criteria that considers safety factors to account for sensitive individuals (such as children and the elderly), and ensures that a product is acceptable for use in environments such as schools and healthcare facilities. It is referenced by both The Collaborative for High Performance Schools (CHPS) and the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Building Rating System. Click here for more information.
Certain ProLite ceiling tiles are approved drop-out ceiling panels that can be installed beneath fire sprinklers. When exposed to heat from a developing fire, drop-out ceiling panels soften, distort, and fall from the ceiling grid. Heat from the growing fire activates the sprinkler which, unimpeded by the panels, controls or extinguishes the fire. Click here for more information.
Materials used in the construction of the tile(s) are 100% waterproof.
Class A Fire Rated
Tiles have been tested in accordance with ASTM 84e and scored a Class A rating for flame spread and smoke generation.
5 Year Limited Warranty
You're making a beautiful upgrade to your ceiling and we're here to help protect that investment. We guarantee that your ceiling tiles will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of five years from the original date of purchase.
This warranty covers material defects in the ceiling tile when used in a standard ceiling application where temperatures do not exceed 120F. It does not cover labor, consequential or incidental damages. This warranty is not transferable and applies to the original purchaser only. Please note that painting the ceiling tile will void the warranty and may change some of its properties like its fire rating.
We're Ready to Help
Unlike a car, there is very little that can go wrong with these ceiling tiles. However, in the rare event that you do encounter a defect with your tiles, we're here and ready to help. Just give us a call and we'll work with you to identify the problem and, in case of defect, supply you with replacement tiles.
We know that projects take a while, and sometimes plans change. That's why, we offer a great return policy on all non-custom products:
Have old tiles still in good condition? Reuse them to add heat and sound insulation as well as support regular insulation above your new tiles by pushing your existing tiles up out of place and turning them slightly to rest on top of the grid system. Watch our video
NOTE: this is likely not compliant with commercial building codes, so verify if this is an option.
Due to the Victorian's thin construction, regular fiberglass insulation is too heavy be laid on top. If your space requires insulation above the tiles you have a few options:
Make sure your grid system is clean, using rubbing alcohol or 409 to remove dirt and oils.
For best results, make sure the temperature in the room is 60-80F and low humidity.
Apply small dabs of direct mount adhesive (a.k.a. glue) along the back of the strips or tape every 6 inches or so. For grid tape, drag the dab along the length to spread it out somewhat. The self-adhesive backing on the strips/tape IS NOT a permanent adhesive, it is meant to hold long enough for the glue to cure. Failure to use glue may result in the failure of the strips or tape to adhere to the ceiling.
Approximately 1 tube of adhesive is needed per 5 packs of strips or 5 rolls of tape. We provide Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive free with purchase or you can use Loctite Power Grab All Purpose Adhesive (available locally in most big box stores).
Should be butted up to one another. Do not overlap! Always start at the same end with each consecutive strip. Always dry-fit first, before peeling off the backing, to see if any trimming is needed.
Take your first strip. The dot at the end should be directly over the intersection of 4 tiles. Once you have the strip lined up, peel the backing from the self adhesive and apply small dabs of adhesive to the back of the strip (see above). Run all the strips one direction first.
Finish by installing the strips that run perpendicular to the tiles. Each strip will need to be trimmed, so keep a pair of scissors or snips in your pocket and cut off the dotted end.
Start in a corner and work one direction. Apply small dabs of adhesive every 6 inches and drag along the length to spread out somewhat. Trim the tape to fit when you reach the end of a run. Finish off by covering the remaining cross T's (shorter grid sections). Trim the tape to fit the space exactly (do not overlap).
Place all of the full sized tiles first so you can:
The Victorian ceiling tile is very easy to cut with regular household scissors. Put measurements on the back side of the tile with a pencil or grease pencil, mark a straight line, and cut! For tiles with a decorative design, you have 4 options for the perimeter of your room, choose the one that fits your taste!
Choose a tile design that has a large enough flat area for the light bezel to lay flush once installed. As with standard mineral fiber tiles, you must choose lights that have grid mounting brackets so that the weight of the light is supported by the grid system and not the tile. The Victorian is not strong enough to support even newer, light-weight clip-in 'puck' style of LED light. Our heavier-duty Signature Series Ceiling Tiles have worked with certain styles of puck lighting.
Place your light fixture and tile in the grid system. Adjust the light to its final position and mark this on the backside of your tile. Use the template to mark the hole in the tile (usually the light bezel itself will be close if no template is available). Cut the opening with scissors or a razor blade.
Unshielded fixtures, especially those using halogen lighting, present a risk of fire or melting the tiles.
The Victorian tile is designed to operate in temperatures up to 120F. Higher temperatures can happen around heat registers, above stoves and ovens, around high temperature lighting, and in environments that intentionally have higher temperatures, like heat spas and Hot Yoga/Bikram studios. Contact us if your space may be subjected to any of these conditions.
If you are installing tiles outdoors or near a door, you may find that a few of your tiles have a tendency to lift out of the grid. The very simple fix is to use our Uplift Prevention Clips or tape inexpensive, powerful magnets to the back of the tiles in a few spots to hold it to the grid. 30-pack on Amazon
Due to the manufacturing process, the width of the flat border around a ceiling tile isn't always perfectly uniform. NEVER use the outside edge of the tile to determine placement. Instead, use the edge of the tile design (just inside the flat border).
|Using Grid Strips||Overlapping (no strips)|
|Required for ProLite, optional for Legacy and Designer||Required for Manchester Ceiling Tile, optional for Legacy and Designer Series|
|Spacing exactly 24"x24" or 24"x48" is recommended, as it leaves a small gap that the grid strip will cover (test the spacing with two tiles and a grid strip).||Place a few tiles on the floor and determine your preferred overlap. Measure the tile spacing between corners of the tile design in this position. The grid you draw later will be smaller than your tile due to the overlap (e.g. if your tile is 23 3/4" and you have a 1/2" overlap, you will draw your grid at 23 1/4").
Note: Everywhere 4 adjacent tiles overlap, the tile thickness compounds. Often, the ceiling height makes this unnoticeable. However, if desired, you can trim 2 or 3 tiles to minimize the thickness.
Note: If the ceiling tile you have chosen has a large amount of relief, consider using a flatter border tile in the spaces where there are lights, vents or other obstructions.
Consider the main, most visible area of your space as well as the longest runs of tiles. These are usually the lines you want square to your starting wall (used as the base for your lines). Most rooms are not square and many times tile layout is a compromise of room shape and border tile size needs.
Using the tile spacing you determined earlier, add the tile grid to your drawing. Many people prefer equal width border tiles on opposing walls. Also, a larger border is often preferred over a small one (e.g. in an 11' wide room many people prefer 4 full tiles and 2 18" wide border tiles over 5 full tiles and 2 6" wide border tiles).
Use a chalk line (or pencil) to put your layout onto the ceiling to keep everything straight. Be precise; if you are off by only 1/8" on each tile, after 8 tiles you will be off a whole inch!
|Using Grid Strips||Overlapping (no strips)|
|Draw a grid according to your determined spacing. Each tile will be placed with the tile design (not the flat edges) centered in the grid.||Draw a "t" (horizontal and vertical line) from the top left corner of the tile design (not the flat edge!) of the starting tile. While you can draw a full grid, many people don't find this necessary. For added precision, you can add hash marks along the "t" at your determined spacing.|
Apply a bead of adhesive all the way around the perimeter of the backside of the tile. Make the bead 1/8" to 3/16" in size. If the tile center lays flat on the ceiling, add a 4" "X" to the center section with adhesive. If the tile has a design where only a few areas touch the ceiling, place dabs of adhesive on those sections. Keep a damp towel handy to clean up any adhesive that may seep out.
|Using Grid Strips||Overlapping (no strips)|
|Install tile with the tile design (not edges) centered in its "grid" box, not touching any of the lines.||Align the top left corner of the tile design to the center of the "t".|
Gently place the tile close to its final location next to your chalk lines. Lightly press the tile to the ceiling as you slide it into position. This lets the adhesive spread out and smear a bit. Once you are satisfied that the tile is in place, firmly press it to the ceiling, rubbing out any bumps in the adhesive.
|Using Grid Strips||Overlapping (no strips)|
|Install all remaining full tiles using same method as the first tile. Tile edges should NOT be touching. Dry fit the Grid Strip to confirm you are placing the tiles with the correct spacing.||Work outwards along the "t" from the first tile, aligning the top left corner of each tile design to its respective hash mark on the "t". Once the full tiles on the "t" are complete, install remaining full tiles, using the edges of the tile design from previously placed tiles to determine horizontal and vertical placement.|
Apply small dabs of direct mount adhesive (a.k.a. glue) every 8 inches (one at each end and two spaced in the middle). The self-adhesive backing on the strip IS NOT a permanent adhesive, it is meant to hold long enough for the glue to cure. Failure to use glue may result in the failure of the strips to adhere to the ceiling.
Approximately 1 tube of adhesive is needed per 5 packs of strips. We provide Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive free with purchase or you can use Loctite Power Grab All Purpose Adhesive (available locally in most big box stores).
Strips should be butted up to one another. Do not overlap! Always start at the same end with each consecutive strip. Always dry-fit first, before peeling off the backing, to see if any trimming is needed.
Take your first strip. The dot at the end should be directly over the intersection of 4 tiles. Once you have the strip lined up, peel the backing from the self adhesive and apply adhesive to the back of the strip (see above). Run all the strips one direction first.