Manchester Ceiling Tile - White

• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Chalk line (recommended)
• Straight edge
• Scissors or Aviation (Tin) Snips
• Adhesive (about 1 tube for every 8 tiles)
• Paper towels and water for clean-up
• Eye protection

• Sheetrock, Drywall, Plaster, Cement, Wood Paneling, Plywood
  Install the tiles directly to the ceiling using an adhesive that is compatible with both the ceiling and the ceiling tile.
• Wood Furring Strips
  Furring strips are a great solution for rough ceilings that would require a lot of work to fix. Level with shims as you install them to give a flat mounting surface. Space out the furring strips according to your tile spacing determined below.
• Popcorn / Stucco / Cottage Cheese Ceilings
  Ceiling tiles should never be applied directly to popcorn ceilings. Either remove the ceiling texture, add a new layer of drywall or 1/4" hardiebacker over the surface, or install furring strips. NOTE: If removing texture installed before the mid-1980's, test beforehand for asbestos, which may require removal by a licensed contractor.

Note: Everywhere 4 adjacent tiles overlap, the tile thickness compounds. Often, the ceiling height makes this unnoticeable. However, if desired, you can trim 2 or 3 tiles to minimize the thickness.

Use grid paper and map out your ceiling. Indicate the position of lights, vents, and any other fixtures or obstructions to help determine your layout.

Consider the main, most visible area of your space as well as the longest runs of tiles. These are usually the lines you want square to your starting wall (used as the base for your lines). Most rooms are not square and many times tile layout is a compromise of room shape and border tile size needs.

Using the tile spacing you determined above, draw the tile grid in your layout. Many people prefer equal width border tiles on opposing walls, and a larger border is often preferred over a small one.

Use a chalk line (or pencil) to put your layout onto the ceiling to keep everything straight. Be precise; if you are off by only 1/8" on each tile, after 8 tiles you will be off a whole inch! Space your chalk lines according to your determined spacing.

Your surface needs to be smooth, clean, and dry. Test your adhesive and tile combination in a small area before committing to doing the whole ceiling.

Make sure all surfaces are clean, as well as your hands. Any oils on the ceiling, tiles, or your hands can affect the adhesive performance. Latex gloves are a great option, keeping oils off the tiles and keeping your hands clean of adhesive.

It is easiest to align two edges of the tile to the drawn grid lines (e.g. the bottom and right edges if you are working from top to bottom and left to right) so that you don't cover any lines you'll need for a subsequent tile.

Apply a 1/8" to 3/16" bead of adhesive all the way around the perimeter of the backside of the tile as well as a 4" "X" to the center section. Keep a damp towel handy to clean up any adhesive that may seep out.

Gently place the tile close to its final location next to your chalk lines. Lightly press the tile to the ceiling as you slide it into position. This lets the adhesive spread out and smear a bit. Once you are satisfied that the tile is in place, firmly press it to the ceiling, rubbing out any bumps in the adhesive.