Old Tin Roof Ceiling Tile 2x4 - Box of 12

Waterproof
Materials used in the construction of the tile(s) are 100% waterproof.

Class A Fire Rated
Tiles have been tested in accordance with ASTM 84e and scored a Class A rating for flame spread and smoke generation.

WARRANTY

5 Year Limited Warranty
You're making a beautiful upgrade to your ceiling and we're here to help protect that investment. We guarantee that your ceiling tiles will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of five years from the original date of purchase.

Warranty Conditions and Limitations
This warranty covers material defects in the ceiling tile when used in a standard ceiling application. It does not cover labor, consequential or incidental damages. This warranty is not transferable and applies to the original purchaser only. Please note that painting the ceiling tile will void the warranty and may change some of its properties like its fire rating.

We're Ready to Help
Unlike a car, there is very little that can go wrong with these ceiling tiles. However, in the rare event that you do encounter a defect with your tiles, we are here and ready to help. Just give us a call and we will work with you to identify the problem and, in case of defect, supply you with replacement tiles.

RETURNS

We know that projects take a while, and sometimes plans change. That's why, we offer a great return policy on all non-custom products:

• 90 day return window with no restocking fees
• Products must be unused/new and in their original boxes
• Customer is responsible for return shipping cost (we are happy to help arrange shipping)
• Partial returns where the quantity discount tier would change are refunded the difference between the original total and the total based on the kept quantity (see example)

How To Install Old Tin Roof Ceiling Tiles

Tools Needed for Installation

• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Straight edge (optional)
• Scissors or Aviation (Tin) Snips
• Gloves
• Eye Protection

Your Old Tiles
Have old tiles still in good condition? Reuse them to add heat and sound insulation as well as support regular insulation above your tiles!

• If your new tile design is flat on the back with no lip around the perimeter, slide it into place below your existing tile, leaving the existing tile in place.
• Or push your existing tiles up out of place and turn them slightly to rest on top of the grid system. NOTE: this is likely not compliant with commercial building codes, so verify if this is an option.

Insulation Above ProLite Series Tiles
Due to the Old Tin Roof's thin construction, regular fiberglass insulation is too heavy be laid on top. If insulation above your ceiling tiles is important, you have a few options:

• Use SoniGuard insulation: the only insulation that can safely sit directly on top of the Old Tin Roof tile.
• Support on your old tiles (see above).
• Place 1x1 or 1x2 wood furring strips across the top of the grid to use as support for insulation.
• Secure the insulation to the "real ceiling" of your space, leaving the tops of the tiles clear of any need to support weight.

Clean Grid (If Using Grid Strips)
Use rubbing alcohol or 409 to remove dirt and oils from your grid. This is easier to do before putting up your new tiles.

Installing - Start with Full Tiles
Place all of the full sized tiles first so you can:

• Verify that your grid is properly aligned/spaced prior to cutting partial tiles.
• Set aside any tiles with damaged corners to use for border/partial tiles. We ALWAYS gladly replace any tiles damaged in shipping, but if you need to cut tiles for border tiles, you'll end up cutting off 2 corners anyways. This can save you time, save the environment, and help you complete your project perfectly without waiting for replacements.

Cutting Border / Partial Tiles
Grid ceilings typically need partial tiles or 'border tiles' along the perimeter, where grid openings are rarely full-sized. Our Old Tin Roof ceiling tile is very easy to cut with regular household scissors, but we recommend using tiles with a flat face for these border spaces, so they sit flat on all edges. Use a tape measure or straightedge to measure the size your tiles need to be. Transfer those measurements to the back side of the tile with a pencil or grease pencil, mark a straight line, and cut!

Recessed / Can Lights (optional)
Choose a tile design that has a large enough flat area for the light bezel to lay flush once installed. As with standard mineral fiber tiles, traditional can lights must have grid mounting brackets so that the weight of the light is supported by the grid system and not the tile.

Place your light fixture and tile in the grid system. Adjust the light to its final position and mark this on the backside of your tile. Use the template to mark the hole in the tile (usually the light bezel itself will be close if no template is available). Cut the opening with scissors or a razor blade.

Caution
Unshielded fixtures, especially those using halogen lighting, present a risk of fire or melting the tiles.

Clip-In 'Puck' LED Lights (optional)
In testing of similar tiles with a few of the newer, clip-in 'puck' style of LED light, they were able to bear the weight without deflecting or deforming. Each type of light, its driver, and installation project is different, so we cannot guarantee results and this does void the Old Tin Roof Ceiling Tile warranty. Be sure to test a few tiles first before proceeding with installation like this.

We strongly advise you to review your local building codes and light installation instructions before installing the lights. You may be required to attach the light and/or driver to the structure of the building. We are not responsible for any issues that may arise when mounting lights or other objects directly to the ceiling tile.

High Temperature Areas
The Old Tin Roof tile is designed to operate in temperatures up to 120F. Higher temperatures can happen around heat registers, above stoves and ovens, around high temperature lighting, and in environments that intentionally have higher temperatures, like heat spas and Hot Yoga/Bikram studios. Contact us if your space may be subjected to any of these conditions.

Installing Decorative Grid Strips (optional)
Make sure your grid system is clean, using rubbing alcohol or 409 to remove dirt and oils.

For best results, make sure the temperature in the room is 60-80F and low humidity.

Glue
Apply small dabs of direct mount adhesive (a.k.a. glue) along the back of the strips. The self-adhesive backing IS NOT a permanent adhesive, it is meant to hold long enough for the glue to cure. Failure to use glue may result in the failure of the strips to adhere to the ceiling.

Approximately 1 tube of adhesive is needed per 5 packs of strips. We provide Red Devil General Purpose Construction Adhesive free with purchase or you can use Loctite Power Grab All Purpose Adhesive (available locally in most big box stores).

Strips should be butted up to one another. Do not overlap! Always start at the same end with each consecutive strip. Always dry-fit first, before peeling off the backing, to see if any trimming is needed.

Take your first strip. The dot at the end should be directly over the intersection of 4 tiles. Once you have the strip lined up, peel the backing from the self adhesive and apply small dabs of adhesive to the back of the strip (see above). Run all the strips one direction first.

Finish by installing the strips that run perpendicular to the tiles. Each strip will need to be trimmed, so keep a pair of scissors or snips in your pocket and cut off the dotted end.